Lago Guatavita and Biking in Bogota

Thursday morning, we set out from Bogota and headed for the Transmilenio station. This is the main form of transportation around the city, which I´d already experienced when accompanying Whitney to her class. Luckily, this time we were not taking the bus during rush hour, and we were able to get seats. Good thing, because the ride to the other side of Bogota had to have taken 40 minutes to an hour. We spent all of it talking nonstop. At the Portal del Norte station, the last on the line, we switched to a smaller bus, a bit bigger and nicer than the one pictured here. This next bus took us to Sesquile, a small town maybe another 40 minutes from Bogota. I have to say, I´ve never had a trip with better conversationalists than Peter and Tess!

Sequile was a small and beautiful town set in the foothills of the Andes mountains. It was a bit of a foggy morning, as you can tell from this picture, but it only added to the mystical atmosphere of the mountains.
Despite its relative lack of size in comparison to Bogota, Sesquile hosted one of the most impressive pastry shops any of us had ever seen- we´re talking possibly thousands of croissants, watermelon decorated cookies, and a giant coconut and cream ball that, much to our chagrin, we never got around to tasting.

From Sesquile, we boarded a smaller colectivo bus like the one pictured above, and our driver dropped us off at a lane which led to Lake Guatavita. A fifteen minute walk led us to the entrance to the park for Guatavita, and another fifteen or so led us to the beginning of the actual climb. Besides the continued discussions about random topics from vegetarianism to movies (both seen and in script form) to outer space travel and death, we were able to enjoy being out of the city and really in nature- see side picture. Finally, I got my wish to hike in the Andes! Parts of the upward climb definitely had me out of breath, but once we got to the top it was absolutely worth it.








As I mentioned, it was a foggy day. I´m sure the lake would be beautiful under any circumstances, but I think I prefer the view that we had. It made things seem so mysterious and incomprehensible. Muisca (people indigenous to the area) chieftains in the past had painted themselves with gold dust and immersed themselves in the lake as part of religious ceremonies, which is how the legend of El Dorado began. To be honest, the way we were able to see the lake, and given that there were few other tourists there on a rainy, gray day, made you feel that at any moment the low hum of beating drums would be heard, and a brightly decorated boat would emerge from the riachuelo into the lake for the ceremony to begin.

Alas, it didn´t, and instead we eventually walked back down from the lake. The colectivo driver who had dropped us off was supposed to come back around 5:30. Since it was only 2:45, we decided to stop by one of the small restaurants along our walk up. We were accompanied much of the way by an adorable black lab puppy dog, who was our self-appointed guide for the trip. We ended up eating in the foyer of a lovely Colombian woman, who served homemade arepas, agua panela, and cafe tinto. Muy delicioso.

At this point, we realized that it was still nearly two hours earlier than we were supposed to be picked up. We decided to start walking to Sesquile, since it was only supposed to be about 4 kilometers (less than 3 miles). Shortly down this beautiful country lane, though, some lovely gentlemen in a wood truck passed by and we were able to grab a ride with them into town. We passed the trip singing and dancing along with the music they were playing.

A note on the people of Colombia. It's incredibly impressive how nice and generous people are. For example, these guys gave us a ride with nothing in it for them. People routinely will offer to help you if it seems that you are lost. Everyone is ready to provide advice and the drop of the hat, and it all contributes to making your experience in Colombia very heartwarming.

After the trip, we eventually arrived home and bought some rum from our favorite little shop in the barrio, run by an older woman who always wears a crisp white apron to serve her customers. A few mixed drinks and some dinner later found us in the Hostel Fatima, where Tess, Alex, Peter, Eli and I spent the night drinking beer and requesting fun songs. It was an awesome night, and I do believe there are some pictures on my disposable camera that may eventually be posted.

Friday morning we woke up and went to work off the hangover by playing some basquetbol in a local park. Dad, you would not be proud of how many peepers I missed at first. A few hours of basketball got us ready for a bike ride. We were able to rent bikes for 4 hours for only about $6-7, which seemed like a great deal. Eventually we realized it was because the bikes were so crappy. Thank goodness for Frann and Victor- I'm not even sure how many times they had to help me put the chain back on the bike! We did get to see much of the city, including the bullfighting ring, and although it was difficult biking on some of the hills, it was a great feeling to have been able to accomplish everything.

At night, there were supposed to have been street performances occuring, but we must have missed some of them- not sure what happened. After a failed attempt at a reggae bar, and finding the jazz bar to be too expensive, some of us ended up back at Fatima with pizza and beer again. My night then ended with watching "Un Novio para Mi Mujer" with Frann (great movie, fans of foreign films should definitely check it out!).




occer, bike ride, drinking/out same little bar

Naturaleza y Musica

Our walk today took us partway up the mountain; we didn't get near Monserrate or even the Jesus statue or cross that also figure into the mountainscape here. The view was absolutely unbelievable, so I can't imagine how much more we'll see from the top. In a sense, Bogota also reminds me of Salt Lake City because it is situated in a bowl between mountain ranges. We came back down from the mountain, and Whitney and I decided to go watch the sunset from a nearby bridge. Despite being a beautiful day, the sunset was obscured by clouds, but on the way home we found the cheapest prices on rum in the city, so it was still definitely a win for us.

We had found out from one of Whitney's students that there was a free concert of traditional Colombian music about one block from the hostel, so 7:30 found us at the local teatro. For some reason I was picturing more of a rock concert atmosphere, with people maybe having seats but getting up and dancing when the mood strikes. However, it was actually a traditional concert space (think high school band concert but nicer and certainly better music). The musicians, whose group name I do not know, were actually an entire musical family. They clearly worked together really well, and played a bunch of traditional songs...think folkloric/country style music, but the Spanish version.

We met up with some of Whit's friends who had also attended the concert, then we came back to the hostel to drink and pass some time before going out to the local nightclub, Quiebra Canto. It was really fun, but other than the music was no different from something you'd experience Stateside.

There are pictures that go with this post, but they are actually on a disposable camera which I'll get developed in the US. Right now, I'm waiting for breakfast to be served before a couple of us head to Lake Guatavita, where the myth of El Dorado was born.

First Days

OK to pick up where I left off...from the cafe, we continued walking through the city. I am just beginning to feel comfortable with names and knowing directions, which is great. We walked back along La Carrera Septima, or 7th Avenue. It's basically the 5th Avenue of Bogota, for comparison. You can buy just about anything on that street, or find any type of food. We then turned onto Avenida Jimenez, another major thoroughway. This is also a street on which you can apparently find roasted ants and try them, which I did. Photo to come soon, courtesy of Whitney. The ants were very crunchy and tasted like salt roasting. The worst parts of the experience were A) you can't stop thinking about the fact that you are eating an ant; and B) the crunchiest parts of the shells and legs linger in your mouth for much longer than you'd like.

We passed through a nice park where, along with a view of other neighborhoods higher in the mountains, we were able to see one of the destinations on my to-do list, Monserrate. The photos didn't turn out very well, but it was impressive. There were some dogs playing in the part as well; stray dogs can be seen on almost any street in basically any part of the city, and they're very friendly (although, no, I won't pet them).

A few steps away from the park was a small market where we picked up a plantain to cook tostones and some mini plums, which were delicious. We were able to watch an impromptu soccer game on a fenced in court. We also spoke briefly to siblings Angela Sofia y Michael deSalinas, who were very curious to know what we gringos were doing in Bogota.

We walked up into an area called El Chorro, which is sort of a hippie/rasta hangout. You can find tons of little artisanal shops selling all sorts of handmade products, from ponchos to jewelry to statues of spiders constructed from wire and rocks. Everyone in the area is friendly and willing to talk to you; without us buying anything, one of the proprietors shared with Whitney certain pattens for making hemp bracelets. El Chorro is a winding street which eventually deposits you into a little plaza with a fountain. It wasn't very busy when we passed by, but I have since walked through at night and it seems like a major place to hang out. The photo is a view from the park down the streets of El Chorro. Note behind the vendor a statue of a man cropping out from one of the buildings. We have seen many such statues, especially in the older section of the city. I haven't seen any Banksy works (though many copies exist of his style), but finding these statues at various points of the city is always a small delight, because they are often so unexpected.

From El Chorro we returned briefly to the hostel, where I was able to write the post, then I accompanied Whitney to her English class. We took the Transmilenio bus, which is an express cross-city bus. It's decently cheap, and except for the fact that rush hour made it SUPER crowded, it was a great experience. It also made me realize that Bogota is enormous; we were on the bus for at least 45 minutes, plus we had walked to the station from our hostel as well.

After Whitney's English class, we returned to the hostel and spent time talking with our roommate Yoav. Then I watched a movie with Frann while he was working in reception, and it was time for bed after a great first day in the city!

My sleep schedule has been really off because of staying up all night before my flight, and catching short naps, plus each night that I've been here I stay up late talking and interacting with others. Yet somehow, I still wake up early in the morning. Yesterday, we decided to take it easy in the AM, since Whitney had to plan for her lessons. I spent the morning reading and dozing in a hammock in the courtyard...pure heaven. I don't know the last time that I've let myself just relax and truly "be", but I'm finding it to be an easy process here in Colombia. It's also fascinating; many of the people, both Colombians and those staying in the hostel, with whom I've interacted are very spiritual people. Even after just two days, I think it's been a huge growing experience for me and it's definitely helping me to dig deeper in my own mind.

For lunch, Whitney and I went to the house of her friend, Raquel. Raquel was born in the Phillipines and raised in the US, and is friendly and warm. We spent hours talking with her about spirituality, politics/international economics, and education. Raquel lives in a neighborhood called La Macarena, and it's worth noting that each of the neighborhoods in Bogota has its own feel. Whitney and I have been discussing how many of the areas remind us of different places that we've been. For instance, La Macarena could just as easily be found in a suburb of Boston, while our own neighborhood La Candelaria is muy parecido a Trinidad en Cuba.

Last night, we were going to attend a concert, but then found out about a philosophy lecture on spiriuality and the world. We walked to meet her friend Daniel to go to the lecture, but he was unable to find out the exact location of the talk, so instead we grabbed some food (I had my first arepa, which is a Colombian specialty. There are different versions that come from different parts of the country. I had the Boyacense version which was basically cornmeal wrapped arond cheese, and it was superbien) and a box of wine and headed back to the hostel. We passed the rest of the night talking with various people coming in and out, which was absolutely amazing. This is the first time I've ever lived in a hostel and I love it. You are able to come in contact with so many people that you otherwise would never meet, and you can get new perspectives on many issues. My night didn't end till about 2:45 AM, because I stayed up talking with Diego and Fran about politics in our countries (Colombia, Argentina, and the US, respectively). We got into specific politicians, corruption, political parties, and even the voting process itself. You know how confusing the electoral college is? Imagine trying to explain it in Spanish...

This morning I woke up to join a meditation session at 8 AM. It was very peaceful and relaxing. One of the women who participated also worked individually with each of us on an exercise to connect us to our ancestors. The theory is that the vertebrae in the spine each hold the memory of one of our ancestors. If you can tap into these energies, your ancestors will help you stay on the path which you are supposed to walk. You lay on your stomach and she utilizes pressure points along the spine to activate the energies. I don't know how aligned with my ancestors I am now, but I can certainly say that she was able to crack parts of my lower back by touching the top of mine spine, so it was certainly enjoyable nonetheless!

Whitney eating a fruit called la pitahaya, which is sort of like a kiwi, but more sweet than sour. The big seeds also give it an awesome texture.

Whitney is currently teaching class as I write. I'm going to grab some breakfast and later this afternoon go on a walk with Frann when he's back from the leather market. Tonight we are going to a free concert of traditional Colombian music, then out to a nightclub/dancing spot.

Los Modismos y Chocolate Santafereno

Our day began with croissants and jam, coffee, and baby bananas...delicious! Whitney and I then began to walk around the city, so that I could get a feel for my home of the next two weeks. The city is well-planned, so once you know an address it makes it relatively easy to know where you are in relation to other things. We headed down to the Plaza de Simon Bolivar and sat to enjoy the view and sunshine for a bit.

Whitney ran into a shoeshine man who had shined her boots before, and engaged his services. Free with the shoeshine was an entire discourse on everything ranging from the pronation of most people's feet to the importance of slang (los modismos) in communication to the groundbreaking wedding of Prince William and Kate Middleton. Though long-winded, he had great insights and has clearly spent much of his time observing people and decoding their interactions.

We next ducked in a church, then headed for the Cafe Florida for the requisite chocolate santafereno. It involves a personal pot of hot chocolate, which you pour into a mug at your leisure. You are given two triangular slices of cheese, somewhat akin to mozzarella but more delicious, which you tear into pieces and deposit in the cup of hot chocolate. Leave that sit for a bit and eat your croissant and jam. Then you can return to the cheese and chocolate. By this point, the cheese is slightly melted and chewy. You can eat it solo or spoon it onto bits of almojabana, which is like a cornbread biscuit. Amazing!!!

I need to cut this short now because, while Whitney's teaching an English class, I'm going to check out a local shopping center. Pics on this and the last post coming soon!

Bogota!

Through a haze of sleep and music from my iPod, I registered the captain's announcement over the loudspeaker that we would shortly be descending into Bogota, and that it was time to fill out our declaration forms for Customs. Excitement dawned on me, as I realized we were landing a half hour early, a nice departure from my delayed flight from Dulles to Newark and from the 7 hours I spent pacing around terminal C in Newark. I figured that by the time we landed and I passed through Customs and Immigration, I would be perfectly on time to meet Whitney. It was clearly too long since I'd traveled in Latin America.

After nearly two hours of waiting in lines, I finally gave Whitney a hug and we proceeded to hop into a taxi autorizado (authorized taxi) and hold our breath for the next 25 minutes until we arrived at the Musicology Hostel, located in the La Candelaria neighborhood of Bogota. That guy could have been a driver in NYC, no sweat...

We were buzzed into the front hall of the hostel, where I met a few of the people that worked here. Entering the inner courtyard, I immediately received the impression of having walked into a jungle. Filled with lush tropical plants and hammocks, the courtyard was lined by the various dorm rooms of the hostel. After checking in a receiving a brief tour from Whitney, we enlisted her friend and hostel worker Francisco to come with us in search of food. We made our way through the windy, hilly, and architecturally rich streets of La Candelaria before arriving at ???, where we ordered empanadas and hamburgers. While the little place at 3 y A in El Vedado, La Habana will always be, to me, the best burgers in the world, this place was a close and delicious second! The company was also fantastic; Whitney and I were able to start catching up, as well as talk more to Fran, who came from Argentina a month ago and works at the hostel in exchange for bed and board. As we were on our walk, we passed the stroke of midnight, and he turned 26, so Whitney and I (more so Whitney) treated him to an impromptu rendition of "Happy Birthday" in the streets of Bogota.

After a few more hours of chisme and catching up here, we turned the lights out- and began talking with Yoav, our Israeli roommate of 23 years old. Somehow, despite the lack of sleep over the past two days, I was also awake by 7 AM. Those of you who know me well can begin to imagine my pleasure at being able to step outside my door, climb into a hammock, and read for an hour with nothing to disturb me. Life is beautiful! After breakfast (which, along with dinner, is apparently included in the already-low cost of $10/night that I pay to stay here), we'll begin an exploration of Bogota. More to come soon :)