Adventures with Petrus and Ollie

How quickly things change! Literally as soon as I finished typing the draft of my last post, I was invited to join others in the hostel bar for pool and drinking games. Somehow the drinking games never materialized, but I spent the night talking quite a bit with Petrus from England. I had also played poker with his friend Ollie the night before. Petrus and Ollie's next stop planned in Colombia was Salento, in the Zona Cafetera, where I also wanted to go. Before long, we had made a deal to trade my Spanish skills for their manly protection, and we would leave the next day for Salento after my Pablo Escobar tour. Happy with the plans, the rest of the night was spent playing pool with a beautiful Brazilian man, then debating Dutch politics with someone from Holland. Here they our in our hostel in Salento.

As it turned out, not everything can go perfectly- I awoke to find out that my Pablo tour had been cancelled. I caught up on some reading and emails, then Petrus, Ollie and I decided to set off for Salento. We made the rookie error of going to the wrong Transport Terminal in Medellin (there are two, one with buses departing for points south and the other for points north). We went north when we should have gone south, so after about an hour setback we were on the bus for Salento. We passed most of it alterately sleeping, listening to music, and discussing books and movies (that is, Petrus and I discussed these things). Somewhere around 8 PM, though, we realized our driver was having some problems with shifting gears on a hill, and eventually our bus shuddered to a dead halt. After a few false starts, everyone from our bus was transferred to a smaller colectivo, which was headed towards Armenia, the town past Salento- our destination. What to do? First our plan was to just spend the night in Armenia, then take a bus to Salento in the morning. However, upon learning of our plight, the entire bus of Colombians took it upon themselves to help us sort things out. The bus driver flagged down other smaller colectivos in Circasia to find out whether the last minibus to Salento had passed through. When they learned that it was still coming, our driver detoured to let us out at the right place and gave us instructions on what to do. And when I say he gave us instructions, I mean he gave me instructions, as I was the only one with reasonably fluent Spanish. So, we spent about 15 minutes watching a boy play-fight with his dog, then we were picked up by the Salento minibus. After about 45 minute ride, during much of which we had to stand because it was full, we arrived in Salento, only to trek around to three different hostels before finding one with available beds. We grabbed some street food (delicious hamburgers) then it was time for bed.

In the morning we decided to go on a coffee tour. Having been told by our hostel owner that the tours were in English, a group of us (Ollie, Petrus and myself plus two New Zealanders, Fiona and Allan), set out on horseback for the finca de cafe (coffee farm). Some of you might remember my Arabian ponies of death story from the time we tried to go on a midnight horseback ride to the pyramids in Egypt. If not, we'll just sum it up by saying it was a terrifying experience and so I haven't ridden a horse since then. I was extremely nervous, but ready to try again. Thank goodness I was mounted next to Ollie, who was calm and looking forward to the ride- it made me feel much better, as did the continual surveillance by our excellent guide, Jose.

After about 40 minutes, we made it to the coffee farm, where, as it turned out, tours were NOT in English. Guess who was the only Spanish-English speaker, and thus translator? Yay for practicing languages! The coffee tour was super fun and informative. A brief summary about the process of growing coffee:

Plants spend the first three months in tiny seedbeds. After this, they spend another 8 months in slightly larger beds. For the next two years, then, they are transplanted to the ground but still do not produce. Finally, after that total of three years, they begin producing, but the best year to harvest beans is the 5th year of bean production. At that point, the plant is cut down to the ground and left to regrow, so that it's quality stays high.

While beans are being produced, they are picked every 14 days in order to A) get the maximum harvest and B) prevent a certain worm from attacking the beans. Some farms spray pesticides to prevent the worm, but ours was completely organic and did not use that. OUr farm was so organic that their fertilizer is straight-up pig manure, from pigs that they keep on the farm as well.

We got to spend about 5 minutes harvesting beans, but we apparently wouldn't be hired, because between us we picked maybe 1-2 kilos (enough to eventually make about 12 cups of coffee). We were told that, during high season (April and May), there are 20 workers who each pick between 100-250 kilos EACH. During the rest of the year, they have 3 workers who each collect between 40-50 kilos/day. From each kilo picked, though, only about 10% actually remains at the end of the process to be made into coffee. Why is that? Because around the coffee bean is actually this thick husk and mucus that need to be removed. In the old days, it was done with a hand crank machine, but now this part has a machine for the work. Next, the beans dry for 7-20 days, depending on the sun. Next, they are separated according to quality. First quality beans (98% of the farm´s production is this good) are separted, taken to Armenia to have the inner skin removed, then shipped abroad- whatever country they go to will then toast and sell them. First quality beans (in left hand) are pretty much sold only abroad, where companies like Weis groceries will mix them with less quality beans to improve the taste, and sell it as ¨Colombian blend¨. Second quality beans (right hand) are kept for consumption within Colombia...not quite fair, is it?

After all this, we were able to sample some coffee. Let me tell you, I am accustomed to drinking mine with milk and sugar. This cup was mostly black, though I added some sugar, and it was delicious- smooth, not at all bitter, and definitely had caffeine (my hands were shaking at lunch two hours later!). Definitely bringing some of this home...

After a galloping ride back to the hostel, I showered and our group from the coffee tour all went to Restaurante Lucy for another comida tipica (y deliciosa!). Fiona and Alan went souvenir shopping, while Petrus, Ollie, and I got some ice cream while I waited for my bus. Saying goodbye to those great guys, I boarded for Pereira and immediately met another American. His name was Brian, he was a teacher in Boston, and was volunteering in a Salento school for the summer. We spent the ride to Pereira talking. In Pereira, I found out I couldn't go directly to Cartagena, so I booked a ride to Medellin. On that bus, I met Luis, a Colombian student studying water engineering, and we talked pretty much the whole way to Medellin. In Medellin, I got a taxi to the other transport terminal, and at 10:30 PM was finally on the way to Cartagena! I arrived here about an hour ago and will be staying at the Makako Chill Out Hostel for the next 3-4 nights. Peter might be here, Tess will be in on Sunday, and in the meantime I can't wait to do the Gabriel Garcia Marquez tour! Time to go shower and begin exploring the city!

Medellin

Daniel and I embarked on my second (of total 4) overnight busrides in Colombia. Thanks to the carried-over exhaustion from Tayrona and other exploits in Taganga, we slept pretty much the entire time, arriving in the former most murderous city in the world around 9 AM Monday morning. He ended up having forgotten something on the bus, so we cooled our heels in the terminal while waiting for it. By 1030 we were golden and stepping about the city´s Metro system, which I have to say is fantastic- it´s well organized, there are signs in each station to let you know what attractions are nearby, and it runs quickly.

We soon arrived at our stop, Poblado, in the city of Medellin. It´s a beautiful, mostly residential, neighborhood, with a few high-end shops mixed in. We meandered for a bit before happening upon our hostel, the Pit Stop. It´s huge, much more so than any I´d stayed in previously- there are over 100 beds here. After putting our bags down, we took ourselves on a walking tour of the nearby environs. And let me tell you, that´s not much, because, although I think population wise Bogota is still bigger, Medellin is sprawling. It´s situated in a valley, like Bogota (or like Salt Lake City, for example), but the city moves onto the various hills around and winds sinuously with the curves of the Andes. The temperature here is partway between the chill and rain of Bogota and the heat and humidity of the coast- aka perfect. You can wander in jeans and a tank top and it´s perfect. So that´s what we did for a bit, taking time to get a dried fruit snack in the Colombian version of WHole Foods (Pomona stores), and passing through the Zona Rosa. Like in Bogota, it´s the upscale area with lots of great restaurants and nightclubs. It was beautiful. Daniel also told me about about the comunas, which are the Medellin version of the favelas in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil- the sprawling shantytown communities pushed further up the hills and out of the city proper, where poverty and increased violence tend to be more common.

We needed a bit of a break then, and came back to watch a bit of a movie and shower. After that, we headed to a nearby food stand in a shopping center to grab some Comida Tipica (detailed in 15 Questions). We came back to the hostel and mostly spent time hanging out with others here- it´s a mix of Brits, Aussies, Americans, and Israelis. Some poker, drinking, and movies were involved, and the next thing you know, we were being woken in the TV room at 2 Am by the concierge, telling us to go to bed.

A good night´s sleep helped us to finally kick the last of exhaustion from the Parque Tayrona experience, and this morning we set off raring to explore the city. We stopped for breakfast in a local panaderia, and we both had something along the lines of a cheese croissant, with coffee for Daniel and Milo for me (essentially chocolate milk). This in general represents a pretty typical breakfast here, or you might have cereal and yogurt (yogurt here is a bit more thin and mixes well with cereal). We then hopped on the Metro system and headed for the University stop.

A brief history of Medellin- in the 1970s, 80s, and 90s, Medellin had a terrible reputation- it was rife with drugs and gang warfare. Does the name Pablo Escobar ring a bell? Police were major targets, and people didn´t feel safe. However, a major effort was made to change the city, and from everything I saw, this effort was a resounding success. Now there are tons of green spaces, places for people to convene, and huge efforts to bring culture and learning to the city, such as a science museum (much more affordable than in the states for only $7.50 to enter), and a free botanical garden. This was Daniel and my first stop on our self-tour. It was a great way to practice my Spanish vocab concerning fruits, veggies, and spices, too!

Next we meandered up through some random streets, apparently going through a semi-red light district, with lots of "by the hour" motels. Apparently you should never tell someone here that you are staying in a motel- it gives the connotation that you are staying somewhere just to have sex. Good to know...

We next ended up at the city´s cementary. Ranging from standard hole-in-the-wall burial arrangements to grand tombs, this place had it all. It was amazing how much color and expression people put into decorating the tombs of their loved ones, as well- it seemed to be a way of keeping alive their family members.

Some more twists and turns brought us to the Plaza Botero, right outside the cultural palace of the city. The strong lines of the center´s architecture next to the curvy pieces of Fernando Botero made for a beautiful contrast to the eyes. We also decided here to stop into the Museo de Antioquia (Antioch Museum, Antioch is the department (aka state, for Americans) that Medellin is in within the country of Colombia). The museum was full of pieces, both international and Colombian, with an entire gallery devoted to Botero, who was himself from Medellin (he´s the man who paints everything much larger than proportion. Some would describe his subjects as plump or even fat, but according to the artist he ascribes size to the subjects to demonstrate their importance or vitality, to make them momentous within his works).

After lunch, we headed back to the hostel (by this point it was already past 5). We spent some time with others watching a Star Wars movie, then unfortunately Daniel had to leave for Bogota- he works tomorrow at 7 Am and had to take a bus back. This leaves me in Medellin by myself, which (sorry Mom and Dad, I know you won´t be thrilled) is really truly my first time travelling ALONE. My plans at this point are to join some other people at the hostel for a Pablo Escobar tour tomorrow, then to catch an overnight bus to Cartagena, where I will reunite with Teresa, who has been taking diving classes in Taganga this week, and possibly Peter. I feel a mixture of emotions- excitement at trying something new, sadness at missing Daniel, who was a fantastic travel companion, and relief that it will only be for a few days until I´m back with someone I know. It feels strange and almost babyish to admit these feelings, because most of the others who I´ve met are sort of expert backpackers, used to going it alone and not getting caught up in travel companions, but there´s a first for everyone for everything, hey? I´m interested to see how I feel at the other side of this, once I´ve met Teresa and will be heading back to Bogota, which feels a bit like my long lost home at this point.

15 Colombian Questions

As always, I have Dale and Judy to thank for asking me many relevant questions that are good for the blog...here you are for answers!

1. Have you had any Juan Valdez Columbian coffee?
I tried a bit of a friend´s coffee from there. It seems that more or less, it´s the Colombian version of Starbucks, so in general it´s more fun and feels more authentic to buy a small cup of tinto (espresso) from a guy on the street instead of from a major company. According to a Colombian friend, the actual brand name was fabricated...the company picked a name, asked a real coffee harvester to serve as their original image, and just built up a brand name in this fashion. The brand name is intended to signify that is is purely Colombian bean in the mix, with no beans from other places.

2. Do the bars serve a Columbian beer or Budweiser?
More Colombian beers are served (I am partial to the Aguila brand, which is probably very akin to a Budweiser). However, they definitely sell Budweiser in the liquor department of most major grocery stores I´ve been to. The major grocery store chain here is called Exito (literal translation: success) and they actually have their own theme song, which you can here if you ever walk in first thing in the morning.

3. Does Bogota have rush hour traffic congestion? Yes, but it´s hard to distinguish from the normal traffic congestion haha. That´s been one of the major boons of visiting some of the coastal cities; much less traffic. However, depending where you go in Bogota and where you live in the first place, it´s pretty easy to get around by foot and avoid it.

4. Does Columbia have private banks or nationalized banks?
There was a financial crisis back in the 1980s, which led to major government intervention in the banking system, but now banks are privately owned. The biggest by far seems to be Bancolombia. Happily, they allow withdrawals from American debit cards. Our friend Eran from the trip to Parque Tayrona is Israeli and he unfortunately found that he wasn´t able to withdraw from Bancolombia and had to use Santander instead, another major bank.

5. Do Bogota stores take Discover Card?
Mastercard and Visa are the preferred credit cards here. However, many places charge you a 30% fee to use it, so I´ve been relying heavily on cash.

6. Does Bogota have an subway system? Nope. They do have a great bus system, though, which covers the main parts of the city. Medellin, however, does have a Metro system (though aboveground) and it´s been a pleasure to use so far!

7. Where is the Columbia coffee grown? In the Zona Cafetera, concentrated a few hours outside of Bogota. The main cities are Pereira, Armenia, and Manizales. Hopefully I will pass through there and be able to write a bit more on this delicious beverage and how it is grown.

8. Can a tourist get by only speaking english? Definitely in the major cities as well as on the hostel circuit. It´s quite surprising the number of semi-fluent to hardly speaking Spanish at all people that I´ve met, and how much they´ve been able to do. That said, it does restrict some of the fun of being able to meet locals and really engage in the culture if you don´t speak it. It would also be very difficult to travel outside the main tourist path.

9. What is the best Columbian meal, Breakfast, Lunch or Dinner? I like them all! I´ll have to go with lunch/dinner, because often the same types of food are served. A typical meal would include rice and beans, lettuce and tomatoes (generously called salad), a plantain slice, meat of your choice, and perhaps an egg or mini arepa included in that. It´s also relatively cheap- Daniel and I had this for lunch at a cost of 6000 COP, or about 3 USD. My other favorite food here has to be the arepa, which is essentially cheese covered in cornmeal and baked. Delicious!!

10. What country do Columbians go to for vacation? According to Daniel, alot of the wealthier set will go to places like Miami. However, Colombians also like to visit their own country to enjoy the beaches. For instance, this past weekend was a long weekend for a Monday holiday, and we encountered TONS of people who had come from nearby cities to enjoy the beaches at Taganga. In-country flights are also relatively cheap, so it makes it possible for those with some money.
In general, too, the perception that many might have of Colombia as a very poor country is only somewhat true. There are certainly poor areas, especially outside of the cities. But within cities, you can find the same amount of wealth as in the states, depending on the area. I have definitely seen Porsche dealerships and home decor stores where I may never be able to shop! It´s a fascinating blend, to be sure!

11. Are there many American tourists? More from other countries, in particular the UK and Israel. However, I have run into some Americans...most of whom I end up trying to avoid- too many of them have said things like "I¨m trying to get a blowjob" or "Hey, did you score with that chick from last night?"

12. Is the unemployment rate low in Columbia? According to the internet, which knows all, the unemployment rate is 11.8%. However, it does make me wonder whether that includes the more informal businesses, such as the woman near Lake Guatavita selling arepas in her front room, or the people in the city with small pushcarts of their own baked goods. My observation is that people are very enterprising, and certainly nothing goes to waste- one of the best art pieces I´ve seen was a sculpture of bottle caps twisted and dented to look like flowers.

13. What is the favorite make of car driven in Columbia? Renaults and Toyotas are EXTREMELY popular. There are also a decent number of Chevrolets. Also speaking of cars, there seems to be a movement on here to increase the use of natural gas as fuel for your car. Though it´s currently still expensive to get cars prepped for this type of fuel combustion, it seems that a change is being made in that direction in order to save the environment and people´s wallets. Incidentally, the cost of gas here is higher than in the states (about $4.40ish for a gallon).

14. Do Columbians like the USA and Obama? Actually, great question. I need to ask more especially about Obama. I´ve gotten some things both ways. For instance, an older woman heard me speaking in English and asked where I was from. On hearing the United States and Great Britain (the friend I was with) she began exclaiming in Spanish, "God bless you both, your countries give so much to help other people, God bless you!" which was certainly heartening. On the other hand, one gentleman gave me a bit of a rough time over the issue of people coming to work in the States. However, in general he didn´t seem to have a great understanding of politics, so I´ll brush that off. I would say the underlying sentiment above all is that Colombians are both polite and kind, and so if you get to know them and make an effort to converse, they will almost certainly appreciate that, which leads to a better understanding between countries.

15. Why is Bogota the capital of Columbia? Was it always? From my general understanding, when the Spanish landed in the 1530s they began in the coastal city of Santa Marta, where I was recently, and basically fought their way inland against the various tribes who lived here. Spanish numbers went from 500 people down to 70 by the time they had defeated the Muisca (El Dorado people who used Lago Guatavita for sacred purposes) who were living in the Bogota region. So the city was founded, basically out of relief at having "made it", and was the capital since then. It´s name comes from Boyaca, which was an indigenous name for a nearby town.